In February this year, just before the first lockdown, I was lucky enough to visit Lahore for the first time, as part of a work trip. Although I was aware of the city’s rich history, I was not prepared for the diversity and wealth of its architectural heritage.

With its myriad of Muslim, Hindu, Sikh and British colonial architecture, it felt easily the equal to Delhi and Agra, its fellow former Mughal capitals, although much less visited by foreign tourists. And as in those other cities, I could also see the visible signs of the battle for architectural conservation.  

In a familiar narrative from countless historic cities across southern Asia, by the late 20th century a combination of neglect and unsympathetic development was putting Lahore’s heritage under increasing threat. Recent conservation initiatives have been led by local architects concerned about the progressive loss of the walled city’s unique character, and a general decline in the conditions of its historic buildings and monuments. Conservation expertise and funding has come from the Aga Khan Foundation and Norwegian government, among others.

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